Stylert Blog

Lumen et Umbra, is renowned for designing innovative and distinctive clothing. The brand is particularly interested in advanced technology in natural textiles and fabrics, combines traditional native Japanese simplicity and traditional craftsmanship into a wearable clothing line.

Issei Fujita, the designer, is from Japan and now lives and works in Italy. After working with Carpe Diem, Fujita branched out on his own, which is when Lumen Et Umbra was born in 2006. Lumen et Umbra translated, means “Light and Shadow”. With a close attention to detail and use of cutting-edge techniques and material, he specializes in fabrics – wools, cottons, cashmeres, silks and very innovative ones like metal and bamboo. He colors and treats these in amazing ways, giving each of his garments a very individual feel.

He likes to create a link between past and present wildlife and big cities tradition and modernity. That’s why fabrics collection are connected to human’s history as often used in ancient times and by the pastoral tradition. He also does special research on materials always using innovative treatments and experimental fabrics. For instance his knitwear has made with paper yarn or carbon and metal mixed with wool or cashmere, silk and cotton. In short terms, the purpose of the designer is focusing on the human being’s true nature who never forgets its roots.

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The Impossible Collection of Fashion is a newly released book which focuses on craftsmanship and design, published and from manufacturer Assouline. The book is written by Valerie Steele, director and chief curator at New York’s Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology and features 100 of the most exquisite dresses the 20th century.

Even if it is impossible to own the entire collections, it was possible for the authors to put together what they admit to be highly subjective fictive collections, showcasing Valerie Steele’s choice of most iconic dresses for this book. It is equally possible for the reader to fantasise about their own ideal collection “in which money is no object and anything is possible”, without any regard for the obstacles reality may put in the way of that collection.

The book is featuring creations from Hussein Chalayan, Chanel, Pucci, Dior, Vionnet to Valentino. The book celebrates the avant-garde contributions of Issey Miyak, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons by including the controversial 1997 nylon ‘Body Meets Dress-Dress Meets Body” dress. As well as a selection iconic cover images, and fashion editorial from Alexander McQueen, Harmony Korine and Damien Hirst.

This beautiful coffee table book also is featuring interviews with the stylists, photographers, musicians, artists and designers that have contributed to and shaped the direction of the magazine as it stands today.

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Get the boots ready! Boots are making a huge fashion statement this year. When it comes to fashion trends for the coming winter we are facing many styles of boots. We have loads of options. Booties, ankle boots, wedge boots, hiking boots, knee-high boots ultra-tall boots all are hot and no matter what your heel preference is, there’s plenty of variety.

Ankle Boots

You have the options of flat ankle boots, box heeled ankle boots and pencil heel ankle boots. Medium heels to high heels, squared toe, rounded toe and pointed toe are the other options you can consider while you opt for one. The proportion of an ankle boot with a mid-calf, full skirt is all wrong: ankle boots look best as part of a leggy look, either with short skirt, skinny jeans or leggings.

Fur Boots

Fur adorning boots is really trendy this autumn and winter season and they keep your feet warm too. For the animal conscious fashionista, many designers covered these boots in the latest high-tech faux fur materials. Without rolling in it, it is very hard to tell the faux from the real fur. The fur is not short and hairy either. The trend is for long lengths of fur that billow in the breeze as your walk. It is a way to make Ultra-Tall Boots.

 Wedge Boots

They are great for casual and daily use, black wedge boots can go with any colour of your outfit and come in ankle, mid calf and knee high lengths. They could be low heeled or high heeled and can be made from leather, suede, sweater, synthetic and even embellished with studs! If they have a tall shaft you can tuck jeans into comfortably, a small wedge for lift (makes your legs look longer) and snazzy hardware for a bit of edge.

Over-The-Knee Boots

Knee-high boots were the perfect finishing touch to Sixties styling at Prada and Yves Saint Laurent . There is a huge variety when it comes to style, trends and designs on thigh high boots for women. These boots are getting popular day by day and so as the change in functions, materials and patterns of the thigh high boots. Knee-high boots make great sense for fall because they let you get more wear out of everything from skinny jeans to miniskirts. Tuck in slim trousers for a young look or layer on opaque tights with a skirt or dress to keep out the chill. Choose a mid-heel height for the most trend-proof look (something 2 inches or less). Brown boots are a great choice if you wear lots of denim; black pairs with almost everything

Hiker Boots

The high-heeled hiker-boot with sheepskin lining and buckle-up straps is the must-have footwear item. Get it fur-lined or super soft faux shearling edged in leather and team it with a hobo bag. It’s versatile; so if you like attitude match it with an aviator jacket and biker jeans OR if you like chic and polished, team it with a camel coat and trousers.  Keep jewellery to a minimum with simple gold pieces completing this season’s minimalist trend.

Ultra-Tall Boots

Whatever you want to call them, boots with really tall shafts are extremely hot this season, and they can be found with low or high heels. Easy to wear, and very versatile, thigh high boots look great with skirts and dresses, or tucked into jeans.

High-Heeled Boots

High heel boots are a sexy, yet elegant way for women to appear taller and show off their legs. High heeled boots are the perfect compromise. No, they may not be practical. You can’t hike in high heeled boots; however, pair them with the season’s trendiest fashion items and other classic staples. High heel boots can be worn with suits, dresses, pants, and skirts and their versatility speaks volumes as to why you must own a pair.

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Look out for Cruella De Vil this season. We have noticed an explosion of monochrome, dalmation print pieces and blood red accessories are featured on the latest runways. We have seen Cruella De Vil trademarks like monochromatic suits, separates and furs are paired with bright-red stilettos and bright-red lips.

Burberry Prorsum sent their models out in massive white Dalmatian fur coats. Manolo Blahnik made Dalmatian statement in white heels with a black patent accent. Chanel used for their manicure black nail lacquer to create little dots on the models nails.

The Vogue Russia October 2011 shoot the campaign ‘On the Verge of Acute’ posed by star model Alla Kostromichova. Alla Kostromichova  is known for her long legs and striking facial features, the model has walked for top designers such as Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, YSL, and Christian Dior.

The campaign is featuring a  black and white wardrobe including  the black and white hair which is making her look like the famous Cruella de Vil. The editorial mixes edginess with vintage glamour and manages to pay homage to an unforgettable fashion icon.

No surprise that also Lady Gaga got inspired from Cruella De Vil when she arrived in Austalia. Gaga wore a white Yves Saint Laurent fishtail dress which had an oversized bat-like shoulder cape which she paired with black silky gloves and spiky black heels, trimmed her hair two-toned (black and white).

However, look out for Cruella De Vil this season, but I hope only in faux fur.

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Stefano Pilati was inspired by nautical chic for Yves Saint Laurent’’s 2012 Resort collection, which showcases classic elements from the famous forties-inspired 1971 Yves Saint Laurent collection.

Stefano Pilati was inspired by a poppy motif from a 1971 YSL collection and a nautical collection of the brand around 1982, this collection was proposed with traditional cruise elements and poppy blossom prints.

The collection is featuring lanyard necklaces, ankle shoes, rope-print dresses, high-waist shorts, jackets, puff-sleeved blouses, flirty skirts and high-waist flaring pants, everything is bright and vivid, with a persistent nautical and poppy motifs. All are in the very well known nautical stripes in bright red, black, white, dark blue, and yellow colors.

The collection also is featuring red leather trench coat over a fresh cotton shirt and wedged heels, micro black and white shorts with anchors woven throughout matched with an elegant black and white blouse, and fabulous knotted top and high collars with little puffed sleeves top.

Yves Saint Laurent’s new men’s SS 2012 summer tailoring started from coats to silken suits in a color palette of sand and sky, in tribal and military style, it in a trench or baggy pleated shorts, a double-breasted coat with a pleated back a white blousons.

Stefano Pilati is an Italian fashion designer. Since 2002, he has been the head designer of the fashion house Yves Saint Laurent.

The fashion house Giorgio Armani hired him as an assistant in its men’s ready-to-wear department in 1993, and the fashion house Prada asked Pilati to run its fabric research and development in 1995.

In 1998, he was promoted to assistant designer at Miu Miu, a brand of Prada, working on men’s and women’s ready-to-wear clothing and reporting directly to Miuccia Prada.

In 2000, Pilati joined fashion house Yves Saint Laurent to run its ready-to-wear clothing design; he took over in 2004.

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Born as a fashion essential, the trench coat is a must have in every wardrobe, is simply a evergreen classic and is one of most iconic fashion pieces.

The trench coat embodies a British heritage, loved from London to Los Angeles, Tyneside to Tokyo, its origin is distinctly militaristic in nature. The history of the iconic trench coat begins at different times, depending on whether you choose Aquascutum or Burberry. Philip Walsh explores the history of the trench coat.

The coat was created in 1901 when Burberry founder Thomas Burberry proposed the garment as the official raincoat for British Army officers. Once World War I rolled around, Burberry altered the jacket slightly to include a few new design features, such as epaulettes, d-rings and straps.

The trench coat, however, did not fare well during the “dress down 90s” – a natural reaction to the hyper-stylised yuppie culture of the 80s. It took Burberry’ s hiring of the photographer Mario Testino and the designer Christopher Bailey at the turn of the century and their forward thinking to turn this around.

Burberry with its distinctive red, black and camel check, has become a must-have fashion brand. Stars including Madonna, Kate Moss and David Beckham have sported in Burberry’s trench coat helping to boost its image. In just a few years it has lost its hopelessly old-fashioned status and become a modern luxury item.

Today’s trench can be made of the traditional heavy cotton gabardine or a more modern poly- cotton shower proof mix. The poly cotton blends allow for a lighter, more versatile trench coat, suitable for many occasions and styles.

The trench coat today remains a pillar of men’s style, they are still loved by a broad cross section of society, from the modern businessmen clutching copies of the Financial Times, to the supermodels on the runways. Since its inception the trench coat has remained an iconic piece of outerwear, born as an essential, its distinct style still captures the hearts of enthusiasts all over the world.

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The Burberry Prorsum Pre Spring 2012 ad campaign is rich with African influences and features its signature trench coats with attractive details made with color from deep navy to turquoise. The campaign showcases the models: Cara Delevigne, Edie Campbell, Charlie France, and Thomas Penfound.

The Burberry Prorsum Pre-Spring 2012 under Creative Director Christopher Bailey,infuses a number of African artisanal and decorative pieces that has been crafted by hand, celebrating craftsmanship but with playful elements.

The collection uses ankara fabric used in traditional African clothing on several items including trench coats, shoes, dresses, high waisted skirts and men’s shirts and pants. But it’s not the first. Designer Gwen Stefani for L.A.MB, has incorporated African elements into her SS 2011 collection.

Since his arrival at foundling label Burberry Prorsum in 2001, designer Christopher Bailey has taken the luxury British brand to new heights. Drawing inspiration from Burberry‘s illustrious heritage, he updates its classic styles with fashion-forward flair. Make the line your destination for elegantly tailored dresses, structured military jackets and, of course, the iconic trench coat.

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Reiko Kaneko is a tableware and accessories designer who adds a Japanese twist to traditional English fine bone china. Born in Japan, the designer creates playful pieces like plates which appear cracked, melting candles and eggcups.

Reiko Kaneko was born in Britain but spent her childhood in Japan, influencing her products in an inimitable blend of English and Japanese style throughout the product ranges. She studied Arts and Design at Central St. Martin’s College. After graduating in 2007, she has established her design studio in London’s East End.

In 2009, she was shortlisted for the Elle Decoration UK Design of the Year. She has also won the Hidden Art Award for her unique ceramics and home accessories, which combine humour and style in a highly original way.

The collections are often produced by combining 3D modeling programmers with centuries-old expertise of makers in Stoke-on-Trent, England. The city is known world-wide as the traditional home of pottery which has moved recently their production abroad. Her love of ceramics has led Reiko to specialize in ceramic design and supplies bone china designs based around her typically British fine bone china tableware and home accessories with a Japanese twist.

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Vivienne Westwood turned 70 this year .Westwood has never lost her enthusiasm for fashion. Her latest SS 2012 show in Paris, was a Royal punk inspired mix of fabrics and colours, ideas and shapes that demonstrate her lifelong career. The collection also shows Westwood’s lifelong love of mixing historical fashion with the now.

Vivienne Westwood uses for her collection unusual drapery, voluminous silhouettes, frantic color combinations and texture mixing. All this is combined with black leather clothes, bright, large-scale chains and zippers and mad make-up, thus getting much unique style.

Malcolm Edwards and the L’Oreal Professional team created Grecian-hair for the show. Inspired by Ancient Greeks and classical hair techniques the stylist explained that ancient, elaborate looks were placed in a “Westwood tumble dryer” for a mixed-up, unexpected finish. There were three different looks, each of which entailed plenty of preparation and some tricky traditional techniques.

Wet hair was wrapped around the head and decorated with crescents of denim and rubbers were attached on top. The second look was dubbed ‘Grecian diva’ and saw hair swept up away from the face at a 45-degree angle for sleek sides. The final look saw hair piled in to beehives inspired by Marie Antoinette-style volume.

Vivienne Westwood turned 70 this year. Vivienne Westwood is considered a symbol of avant-garde and one of the most influential and recognized designers in the world today.

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Rihanna is featuring the latest Emporio Armani underwear campaign. The pop star posed for photographer Steven Klein in New York City, which also features clothing by Armani Jeans. Celebrities who have been represented Armani include Megan Fox, Cristiano Ronaldo, Rafael Nadal, David Beckham, and Victoria Beckham.

Rihanna also is showing off some of her tattoos collection in the campaign. The singer is just the latest in a long line of famous faces to model for the world-famous luxury brand. Last year Megan Fox and football star Ronaldo replaced David and Victoria Beckham as the faces of the label’s eponymous underwear collection.

The campaign was shot by the famous photographer Steven Klein. Steven Klein  is a renowned photographer within the fashion world, he is often approached to photograph projects outside of fashion. He famously shot the photos for Britney Spears third album as well as the 2008 edition of the famous French “Dieux du Stade” calendar, featuring the French national rugby team.

Klein has signed deals with some of the biggest names in the fashion community, working regularly with Dolce & Gabbana as well as Calvin Klein, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Loewe and many others.

He has worked with fashion magazines like Vogue, Numero, W, and i-D, shooting their fashion pages. For these publications he has photographed world famous models like Natalia Vodianova and Lara Stone. He is particularly well known for his celebrity profile projects with W magazine, having shot Madonna, Tom Ford, Brad Pitt, David Beckham and many other famous personalities.

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